Today was going to be a short 48 km ride from Mainz to Bacharach (a German town, not the American composer) so plenty of time to go off the main route and explore the many towns at this stage.
I stayed in Mainz-Kastel at a camping ground and had my camping fix ... with no rain! I slept well until 5.00am when Frankfurt airport started operations and, with my tent right under the flight path, I had a noisy start to the day. I set off to Mainz itself and rode around the old part of town, past the Mainz Cathedral St. Stephan's Church, and Gutenberg Museum. The buildings are so ornate and so well preserved and cared for ... a credit to those involved. Kirschgarten, a small town square with decorative houses around it, was really interesting as well. I've been asked if have I visited many tourist attractions ... not really. It hadn't been the aim of my trip ... it's about the experience of cycling the Rhine, meeting people, stopping in the villages and towns. Actually going into the museums and galleries on the way hasn't been a focus. I've certainly been to a few, however, I'm just as comfortable riding past. Again, weird I know.
Riding alongside the Rhine and at the edge of, or through, the villages of Schierstein, Niederwalluf and Eltville was really enjoyable. The pathways were in very good condition, and the towns were close together which made for lots to see. Niederwalluf was a diversion off the route because of works on the bike path ... it turned out to be my first ice cream shop stop! Banana split with choices of three ice cream scoops ... and all the embellishments on top. One thing about cycling that I've discovered is that you don't put on weight!
After Niederwalluf I come to a lengthy gravel stretch of road. It is squeezed between the Rhine and some beautiful old houses ... must have been owned by the German aristocracy ... large and beautifully decorated. Upkeep on them today must be horrendous!
As I was getting closer to Rudesheim I was planning for my next ice cream and a famous Rudesheim coffee. My wife, Kathy, and I visited here in 2019 with friends Brett and Janine. I was now cycling along the same stretch that Brett and I cycled on when we came up with the Eurovelo 15 cycling idea! Ah ... the memories.
Just as a broad smile hit my face I heard a loud ping and clanging noise. I'd broken a spoke. Not good ... the wheel was now out of balance and rubbing, and who knew when a second spoke could go. Fortunately, I was only 3 km from a bike shop.
I arrived in time for the owner to tell me that he was an hour away from 3 weeks' holiday so no joy from him. Not to worry he tells me, 'There's another bike shop 4 km away". I gently nurture Myrle, my bike, another 4 km. Only to find that the shop is closed for the day. I quickly Google bike shops and find two more a further 5 km on in Rudesheim itself. I'm now really worried about the back wheel.
Again, slowly and steadily I continue on. I get to a third bike shop! Yay! The young guy came out however he had no spoke to fit my bike ... good news is that there is another bike shop at the top of the hill about 1.5 km away ... the bad news is that he's closed from noon and 3pm. It's now 12.10 pm! I had off for lunch and an ice cream. At 1.30 pm I decide to walk my bike to the shop ... uphill in the heat. The owner may get back early from lunch or might see me out the front and take pity! You guessed it ... I got there in time to see that he's on holiday for the next 6 days!
One of the upsides of travel is that you plan for the unexpected. I had no one but myself to work this one out. Great for problem-solving skills ... not too good if you suffer from anxiety. I still had 20 km to ride just to get to Bacharach where there was no bike shop anyway according the Google. I could try to nurse the bike 70 km to Koblenz. The risk of damage to the bike and tyre, let alone if one or the other gave out miles from anywhere, was too great. Only one thing for it ... catch a train to a city where repairs could be done, then catch a train back to continue the ride! How easy is that?
I ended up on the 3.06pm train to Koblenz, arriving at 4.15pm. I'd already planned which bike shop to target first. I arrived there 20 minutes later ... the shop assistant looked at his watch then consulted the head of the service department. He came over cracked a joke or two about Australian killer wildlife i.e. sharks, crocodiles, snakes, then said give us 30 minutes!
I'm now in a hotel in Koblenz resting up. I head back to Rudesheim by train very early tomorrow morning to pick up where I left off. It will be a 70 km day but that's fine ... I'll be back on track! Some might say why bother going back, it's just 70 km out of 1400 km. It matters to me ... my objective has always been the ride the Rhine from source to sea.
Thanks for reading.
Oh, I did have another ice cream with dinner!
I'm
doing this ride to raise funds for Blue Dragon Children's Foundation.
I'm self-supported so all donations go directly to Blue Dragon. If you
can give please do at ...
https://au-bluedragon.givecloud.co/fundraisers/pedalling-for-a-purpose.
Alternatively, go to Blue Dragon's website at bluedragon.org
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