Eurovelo 15 - Day 10 - Neuf-Brisach to Strasbourg

There had been constant but light rain all night, and it stops right on 6.30am to allow me to pack up and load the bike. Very considerate! The tent is wet outside and in (outside from the rain and inside from the condensation). Fortunately all of my other gear is dry. 

I would have left around 7.30 am, however just as I was about to put my stand up, the owner of the campingplatz brought out a freshly brewed expresso for me. Very generous!

My route did one final lap of the town centre then off onto a decomposed granite and well compacted path running alongside another canal ... this time the Ancien Canal du Rhone au Rhin. So the same as yesterday but 'ancien' today. Yesterday's canal journey did become monotonous after the first 30 km of so, however, I found today's much more enjoyable. I think that today's ride had far more vegetation growing into and alongside the canal making it seem far more natural than the concrete culvert of yesterday. Also, the trees were deciduous rather than the mainly evergreens yesterday, so the colours of the turning leaves were a montage of browns, yellows, greens and reds.

 

 

 

Even after the rain last night, there are few signs of it on the path.  No puddles and very little mud. The ground is so dry from the drought that it is quickly absorbed. In summary, good for me as it settles the dust; not so good for the surrounding farmers.

After about 45 minutes the path takes a 180-degree turn, then another 90 degrees, onto a bitumen pathway and I see my first lock - where small boats traversing the canal, can move up and down the surrounding hills. Many more to come with some even having small restaurants attached - I'm unsure if that's for boat owners while they wait for the locks to fill or refill, or whether watching boat owners manoeuvre into the locks with inches to spare is a blood sport for spectators!

 

 

The bike path continues on the left side of the canal, with some respite by changing to the right side at times, but never for long. I started to see more fishermen (I've only seen men fishing here so far) and have worked out that they are solitary creatures. They know you're riding past yet don't seem to have a desire to acknowledge or be acknowledged. One fisherman, on the opposite bank, with a fishing rod so big it could practically reach my side of the canal, did watch as I rode past, so I waved hoping for some level of interaction.  He started to raise his hand ... yes, here it comes ... to his mouth to vape!

I come within 7 km of Europa Park, the largest theme park in Germany, and the second largest in Europe after Disneyland in Paris. The child in me wanted to turn and head that way ... I continued on instead. It's around here that I actually see boats in the canals.  Some lived on full time, and are so big I don't know how they will ever get out of the canals - too big to turn around, and the upper reaches of the Canal from where I've come seemingly too narrow and shallow to accommodate them. 

I'm stopped on the path by a mother and her 4 children.  A family of coypu, also known as the nutria, is a large, herbivorous, semiaquatic rodent. This one is far too big for the mouse trap ... they are quite cute actually. Also saw plenty of swans today as well ... also cute - kinda, sorta.

 

 

 

When I see a fully loaded cyclist heading towards me I'll pull over and hope they do the same.  Most do. We swap information on the journey ahead, and the grand plan for each. I met a young Brazilian couple who were travelling for the next six weeks criss-crossing France and Germany. I soon stopped for another couple - they didn't. I'm sure the second rider, a woman, did wish to pull over and chat, however, the male species leading the charge was on a mission. Head down, legs working hard.  He did call out "hello" which was nice. I hope he takes time to enjoy the ride ... it's the journey, not the destination they say ... right? 

I was now very hungry.  I had to go off the marked route to go into the local village of Krafft to find a patisserie. I hadn't passed through a village all day. This patisserie had only about 3 choices - I went for an apple turnover and a chicken salad. Both were fantastic - the salad was so flavoursome and fresh.

As I close in on Strasbourg, I start to think about riding on, at least to the northern side of Strasbourg for another early start on the Eurovelo tomorrow. I visited the city in 2019 so comfortable to bypass the town this time. I pulled into central Strasbourg, however I didn't feel the pull to stay, so I rode in the direction of the Rhine downstream. Somewhat ironic as I haven't seen the Rhine for 2 days now. Thankfully that changes tomorrow. 

I rode just a further 5 km and pulled into the Boutique Hotel des XV. Very nice, so looking forward to a great sleep tonight.  I'd no sooner arrived when I had a message from Don Hudson who connected with me a few days ago. Don, and his wife Claire, are USA nationals who now call France, and in particular Strasbourg, home. Don kindly offered to catch up for a beer. It was such a kind and generous offer how could I refuse. Don and Claire were wonderful company, and I really valued our time together. They have a passion for France, and it's not hard to understand why.  Thank you Don and Claire ... hope to see you in Australia soon!

Thanks for reading.

 

I'm doing this ride to raise funds for Blue Dragon Children's Foundation. I'm self-supported so all donations go directly to Blue Dragon. If you can give please do at ... https://au-bluedragon.givecloud.co/fundraisers/pedalling-for-a-purpose. Alternatively, go to Blue Dragon's website at bluedragon.org